We really are only visiting this state, Himachal Pradesh, so my OH can enjoy the 5hr toy train journey up into the hills. We had seats booked on the Himalayan Queen from Kakla to Shimla. Sounds very exotic but no, it’s an old train with uncomfortable bench seats but at least we got seats on the right hand side which gives you the better view. I was surprised to find that it’s not just a tourist train but still carries ordinary people just wanting to avoid the narrow, twisting, tortuous road.
Shimla became the summer headquarters of the British government in India in 1864. It is still very important with the Army Headquarters and a number of other Govt departments being based there too.
So we went to visit the Viceroy’s Mansion built in 1888 surrounded by immaculate gardens and tennis courts. The building is now the Institute for Advanced Studies, so the Public can only view a few rooms.
Interesting facts are: it was completed in only 4 years despite the stone it was constructed with having to be hauled all the way up to Shimla by mule, it had all the new technology of that era, ie a piping system throughout the house to provide hot and cold running water as well as electricity in all the rooms, provided by a large steam generator hidden in the grounds (so the noise wouldn’t disturb the inhabitants). The photos we saw also attest to the fact it had been sumptuously decorated. It also boasted having an empty room just for suitcases, a vast wine cellar and an indoor tennis court.
After India gained Independence in 1947 it became the summer residence of Indian Presidents (who also liked to get away from Delhi during the summer months!)
Having been to the Viceroy’s House we couldn’t miss out going to see the other areas synonymous with the British, like Christ Church, which is the second oldest church in India. It was built in a style to remind the Brits of home.
Apart from the fact it’s painted yellow!! Next to it is the Library
It stands on the end of the Ridge, where The Mall starts and runs all the way to the Viceroy’s House (about 3km). All along The Mall are shops and restaurants as well as the Town Hall and the Gaiety Theatre, which is still in use today.
We did get drawn in by the shops and bought slippers, made from yaks hair which are supposed to be super warm, and a double sided waistcoat and hat for the OH.
Another place on the must see list was Hindu god Hanuman’s statue also known as the Jakhu Temple (as it’s built on Jakhu Hill). The statue is 33m high and is bright orange, so it not hard to miss! It is 2,455 meters above sea level. (Machu Pichu is 2,430)
This was all very nice then our driver said he’d take us to a ski resort. “OK” , we said hesitantly, “we’re a bit old to learn how to ski”. “No you won’t be skiing”, he said.
So we handed over a fistful of Rupees, were given some wellies to wear and ushered to a small van that sped off with us up the hill, after 10mins bouncing along and skidding on the black ice we got to a car park where we we told to get out of the van and into a rickety jeep.
This is my view from the back of the jeep
(Well actually this video was taken on the way back as on the way there I was hanging on for grim death.)
Once at the top we got out and walked in the direction the driver gesticulated. We wandered around, a bit bewildered. The hill top was bare and brown…
And fenced off with barbed wire.
A bit further on we saw a sign
That explained the ploughed earth. No potato plants here at the moment but no snow either!!! We were all dressed up for nothing. Other English speaking Indian tourists from London, who we recognised from our hotel, were equally as confused as us. However, the locals were so excited to see snow.
Anyway, after having our photos taken with various locals involving hats, we made our way back to the jeep.
Our driver, having looked at our faces when we got back, didn’t ask how we’d enjoyed the skiing, neither did he believe me when I said we’d paid all that money to look at a potato farm!!!
Our hotel, The Zion, was lovely and really warm. It also had a very nice bar with some stunning views of Shimla across the valley.
I took the time to educate the young barman on how to make a proper Dry Gin Martini, shaken and not stirred. I had to make sure he remembered how to make one the following day and the day after 😜
We enjoyed Shimla but we are looking forward to feeling the warmth again in our next destination, Rishikesh.
