Asturias: Perlora and Oviedo

Both me and my hubby were searching on line for a campsite not too far from Santander that was on the coast where were could recover from our ferry experience and as luck would have it we both chose the same place!

We both found a tiny little campsite in Perlora just west of Gijon. It was on top of a little hillock type peninsular which was just big enough to take 30 or so caravans and 20 or so tents. It was in a perfect location, you could see the sea from wherever you were on site … unless you were tucked in behind someone else! It must be a bit of a nightmare in high season as there was only about 2 feet between each caravan end to end and only about 10ft in front. However, most of the caravans were empty and left there all season round with only a few touring spaces.

As it was the end of April we had a choice of spaces so we pulled up beside a van, the owners of which were in Milan we were assured, and had a spectacular view of the sea (see picture above), the road to the next little town, Candas, and the lighthouse at the end of the next peninsular. A really lovely sight as the sun went down and the street lights were reflected in the sea.

The amenities were basic and limited but there was plenty of hot water and the view when you were doing the washing up was breathtaking.

We got out chairs out, poured a GnT and sat outside to eat out supper, I lasted a few minutes as it was so windy my hair was blowing into my food, so I retreated into the van, where I could enjoy the view without being blown away. (I know I’m a fair weather camper)

The next day we walked into Candas and had a wander round, found the sculpture trail up to the lighthouse but decided to sample the local cidre instead. Only the bar we chose didn’t have any cider but dit do a nice vino tinto. We got chatting to another couple who were on the same site and had spotted our Beast and were interested in finding out more. After four rounds of drinks later we sauntered (not staggered) back to the moho and tucked into bacon sarnies. Delish. By the way the 4 rounds of drink had only cost €13 per couple and we’d had 2 lots of free tapas with it.

Next day we ventured to the railway station up past the viaduct to get a train to Orviedo. Having stood on the wrong side of the track for a bit we hightailed it across the line and onto the opposite platform, the train arrived spot on time.

We got on expecting the ticket / conductor to walk down any minute but no, we got to Gijon where we knew we had to alight and catch a different train to Oviedo. Could we work out the ticket machine? No. This little Spanish guy chatted to us at breakneck speed, we tried to explain we’d come from Perlora. He put in some where different and then kept patting the side of his nose with his index finger and rubbing his other fingers and thumb together, we sussed out that he was trying to save us money and had put in a station closer, so we paid the exorbitant cost of €1.65 each!

We bought our tickets to Oviedo, having sussed out how to work the machine and boarded with a few minutes to go. The journey was uneventful but it was interesting to see the terrain. This part of northern Spain is coal mining country so it’s very industrial and mines and and the other detritus associated with mining scars the countryside. What a shame, as further east when we driving from Santander the hills were lush and green and the pretty white houses all had orange tiled roofs which looks very much like Austrian chalets surrounded by roan coloured cows nose deep in the lush green grass, swishing their tails in harmony. It was almost perfect. Shame about the coal mines a few miles down the road. However, it had obviously made the area rich in one way. Good infrastructure, lots of large houses and busy towns.

Anyway, the station was very modern and in the centre of the town. The ‘old town’ was a 15 walk away. We walked round the Cathedral and then went to visit the fine arts museum but didn’t have long in there as it closed at 2pm, as did everywhere else. So we had no choice but to go and eat.

We found a little restaurant round the corner from the Cathedral. The waiter came up and started reciting, in very fast Spanish, what was available. We looked blank and said ‘English!’ “Ah,” he said, and walked off behind the bar and said to another waiter, ‘English menu’, a few minutes he came back with a piece of paper in his had with today’s specials written by hand in Spanish!

Thankfully, I have Google Translate on my phone and we were able to work out what we wanted. So when he came back we ordered 2 salads and 2 brochettes and a vino tinto and a vino blanco. We were given an amuse buche of what seemed like a creamy, fishy veloute and the wine arrived. He came armed with both a bottle of red and a bottle of white. Panicking I looked up the Spanish for ‘one glass’ trying to explain we only wanted one glass each. He nodded and poured us our wine then lent over to the next empty table and took the two glasses off there and put them next to our full ones, then walked off. At this point we gave up, the salads arrived and we tucked in and decided to just put up with it and drink a whole bottle each and just pay up.

Our main courses arrived, juicy pork, peppers and onions on skewers with home cooked chips, we followed it with vanilla ice cream with caramel sauce. We spent a very pleasant couple of hours and when we asked for the bill we were ready to face the consequences. The bill came to €32. Amazed we paid quickly and left not believing our luck.

The journey back was uneventful probably because we both nodded off!

The following day we were off to Leon.

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