Bhuj: Great Rann of Kutch white desert salt plains

We thought when we’d seen the wild ass sanctuary that was all there was to see of Kutch but it actually covers a vast area so we had to drive a few hours west towards the sea.

You know when you’re getting close as the salt fields are endless.

And there are salt mountains on the side of the road.

This area around the Grand Rann of Kutch is under sea water for almost half the year, the sea water rises about 3 to 4 foot (a metre or so) for the winter months, when the tides recedes it leaves a layer of salt that dries in the sunshine to a hard crust.

The full moon night’s here are a great draw as the salt takes on the look of sparkling snow (but warm not cold!)

Here we are with our lovely driver, Pappu. He’s been brilliant and has been with us since we arrived in Delhi.

Of course it’s very touristy, with lots of photo opportunities for the thousands of local tourists who come here.

The turntable thing with a long arm is designed so you can put your phone in the holder and dance on the revolving platform to loud music. I suppose it would give you a good view of the salt desert. Not forgetting the camel rides and camel trucks you can use to get there.

We were sensible and caught the bus!

There are festivals in January, lots of pop up accommodation is provided for people to stay a few days. There are food courts, dancing stages, musical tents (think Glastonbury but much smaller). Each festival lasts for nearly a week and celebrates local culture with folk music, traditional dancing, singing and local cuisine.

However, even when there’s isn’t a festival there are always musicians on hand.

Not far from the White Desert village up in the hills almost on the border with Pakistan our guide took us to a place where there is a strong magnetic force.

When you stop your car either side of the line it will move of its own accord either towards it or away from it. We were godsmacked.

Not sure if you heard me say, “I think we’re going down hill now.” Having looked on the internet it seems it is really just an optical illusion as the landscape makes you think that’s the road is flat when actually it slopes both ways. But I wasn’t going to disillusion the coach load of Indian tourists who had video our car being pushed and pulled by the magnetic force.

A lot of the villagers here in this border area are migrants from Ragasthan, like the Meghwai-Harijans tribes who have kept their traditional skills of intricate embroidery using delicate stitching, and incorporating mirrors into the fabric.

The Ludiya Village is home to Harijan and Muslim communities. Men often focus on wood carving and women make embroidery and wall hangings/covers. These covers are double layered with silk on one side and cotton on the other, hand sewn in regular patterns so it almost looks like a patchwork quilt.

The Dhordo Village is known for its beautiful traditional round mud houses called Bhungas, decorated with mirror work inside and vibrant paint in geometric patterns outside.