Jaisalmer: The Golden City
This city gets its name from the golden sandstone all of the buildings are made from, it truly is a golden (especially in the sunshine).
Today it’s a remote outpost in the Thar Desert, founded in the 12th century it was once on the busy trade route known as The Spice Route. The guidebooks say the initial rulers became rich by looting the caravans then later by defending them and later still by taxing the merchants who traded with the caravaneers.
By the 1800’s the merchants who lived in the fortified town of Jaisalmer were so wealthy they were in competition as to who could show off their immense wealth through building huge 5 storey houses covered in filigree stonework and beautifully carved balconies. Which is why it is also known as the city of a thousand balconies. Honestly you can get a seriously stiff neck walking around this place.
We visited Lake Gadisagar first to see it in the morning light. It is a rainwater reservoir filled during the rainy season, built in 1367. Once it was the city’s only source of water and therefore very important, the edges of the lake is lined with temples and ghats (steps leading down to the water).
This gateway was built by one of the kings courtesans, she was his favourite. His wives told him that if he walked under the gateway built by her it would be like he was walking between her legs and that would be shameful. The clever courtesan, Telia, quickly had a statue of Krishna placed on the top. This way the king was walking under a shrine, so she kept her gateway and her wish of there being something to remember her by after she was gone.
We had to take a tuk tuk to the fortress as cars aren’t allowed inside the narrow streets.
There are 3 gates to go through until you are in the centre. After this point it’s walking or by bike/scooter (and there are millions of them)
Around a steep bend to the second
And up a winding narrowing street to the third.
This one has a high balcony above it so any enemies could be spotted.
The main square has from the right, the Queens’ apartments, the seven-storey King’s palace, the Kings throne is at the top of what looks like large steps but it is where his courtiers, priests and high ranking army officers would sit on days when the King spoke to the people.
In medieval times the whole population lived within the safety of the fort. Hence why the fort is still lived in today, houses are handed down from generation to generation.
This square was interesting as it showed 3 houses built at different times all built around an ancient well.
Also inside the fort are some Jain Temples. There are 2 right next to each other. You can just make out the 2 sets of rooves.
Next our guide took us to see the famous Havelis built between 1805 and 1855 by Guman Chand Patwa, one of the richest merchants in Jaisalmer. We were told that when Indira Gandhi came to visit she suggested as the street was so narrow that the house opposite be demolished so people could have a better view, so that is what happened.
View from the gap across the street.
Whilst we were there this 12 year old kid came up and asked if he could show us some magic. He was so cute and funny.
That evening we drove into the desert to enjoy a jeep safari and watch the sunset.
We had no idea just how many other people would have the same idea! There were hundreds there!!!
We stayed at a brilliant hotel whilst we were in Jaisalmer, called Mandir Palace. The Maharaja and his family still live in a large portion and the old guest accommodation has been turned into a hotel with a small museum. It was lovely. We’ve never stayed in a palace before! Let alone one where the Royal Family were in residence!! We didn’t see them!
The song is the ring tune that our driver had on his phone, which went off numerous times a day!!!
The other night our driver took us to Bada Bargh where the Royal Family remains are interred.
