Mahabalipuram, home to ancient cave temples and monolithic rathas
Also known at Mamallapuram, the town occupies a stunning position on a rocky outcrop between the beach and a lagoon.
Its real claim to fame rests on its ancient history and magnificent Tamil art rock temples and carvings, there are 14 cave temples, 9 monolithic rathas (shrines in the shape of chariots) 3 stone temples and 4 relief sculptured rock panels. I’m not sure if we got to see them all as they’re dotted about and there aren’t any signposts. Most we found just by wandering about the rocky outcrop.
However, the one exception was the Shore Temple, which was just an 8 min walk from our hotel.
Built by Narashima Varman II (known as Rajasimha) in 670-715AD, it’s a lone survivor of 7 similar temples, the rest have been claimed over time by the sea.
There are 2 shrines here, one dedicated to Shiva and the smaller one to Vishnu.
Typically the shrine is enclosed by a wall with Nandis (bulls) all along the top.
Obviously, having been buffetted by the wind, sand and sea over the centuries the carvings have been worn down but it is still an impressive building and a testament to the workmanship of the stone masons.
Next we walked along to see the world’s largest bas relief carved out of the rock, called Arjuna’s Penance or the Descent of the Ganga. It’s 96ft long and 43ft high. The elephant alone is 16ft long
The big elephant is leading smaller ones to the cleft in the rock, which is natural, but has been enhanced by the divertion of a stream to create a tiny trickle of water to run down the crevice.
All the figures – demi-gods, humans, birds and animals are being pulled towards the crevice.
Just along from this are caves carved out of solid rock.
This one shows Lord Krishna lifting up the mountain to protect the shepherd community of Gokula from the wrath of Varna, the rain God.
Some young girls were looking at the caves at the same time as us and posed for photos in front of the pillars, my OH decided to copy their pose! 🤣 Poor girls didn’t know what do make of it 😂
The most famous rock is Krishna’s Butter Ball. Where kids were using the rock face as an impromptu slide.
It’s a natural stone that looks like it’s been placed there, quite amazing. There’s a sign that says in the 20th century there was an attempt to take it down but they failed!
We walked around and found a few other carved temples.
This temple which was built later was opposite the lighthouse, it had been started but never finished.
It has some very intricate carvings on the door frames
Nothing to do with temples or carvings, I just thought this tree looked interesting growing out from the rocks.
The following day we went to see the 5 Rathas. As we no longer have a driver with us we decided to walk, bad idea, it was over 30° and it was much, much further than we thought!!! We got a tuk tuk back.
One of the Rathas was a full size carved elephant.
They are a series of small shrines that are in the shape of temple chariots.
The temples are incomplete, yet each has its own charm.
We couldn’t not go down to the beach whilst we we here!
What a great view from a shore front restaurant we found.
Even better when it’s lit up.
Whilst we were here it was my birthday so my OH organised for a surprise birthday cake. Ahhh
It was lovely and lasted us for days!!
On our last day (my birthday) we took it easy and did one visit first thing, to see the small Tiger Cave dating from the same period (595-725AD)
And another small temple
One really lovely tradition here is to draw patterns with chalk outside your house, a fresh one every day. It’s called a Rangoli. The rangoli represents the happiness, positivity and liveliness of a household, and is intended to welcome Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth and good luck. It is believed that a Hindu household without a clean entrance and rangoli is an abode of daridra (bad luck).
Starting to make our way back home now. 😢
